Winemaker Pierre Ragon is a national treasure, not only because he has made great Quincy for the last half century, but also because he embodies a version of France that’s rapidly slipping from the present day. Luckily the wines he makes, alongside his young mentee, Augustin Ponroy, preserve history and tradition without compromise. Pierre recalls that back in the day, others in the region picked early to follow trends, while he quietly waited a few more weeks, never in a rush or influenced by the decisions of his neighbors. This bottling has a warm hue and smells of jammy pink citrus and fresh tarragon. It’s hard to believe that such a playful nose leads to wine with depth and gravitas.