From the 6-acre original planting with some vines going back to the 1970s, this gnarly old vineyard miraculously gives us, year in year out, a wine completely unique in the world and offers proof of the French adage that the greatest vineyards are not subject to much vintage variation. It’s like a riddle: how can a wine be so sublimely subtle and so unbelievably intense at the same time? The Judge (John’s father and the wine’s namesake) would have been 103 this year.