"The 2019 Gattinara Molsino is a dark, brooding wine. Smoke, incense, licorice and leather open in the glass, but only with great reluctance. A wine of tremendous persistence and presence, the Molsino is so impressive in 2019. It is also embryonic and in need of cellaring. The only question is how long. Time in the glass brings out the wine's natural resonance, offering a glimpse of what will come in time. "